COLOMBIA
LA PLAYA DE BELEN – OFF THE BEATEN TRACK IN NORTHERN COLOMBIA
12 January 2019
LA PLAYA DE BELEN – OFF THE BEATEN TRACK IN NORTHERN COLOMBIA
12 January 2019
Norte de Santander is a department in northwest Colombia which hardly sees any foreign tourists. Mainly because the advice from most governments is to avoid all but essential travel to the area. But also because of the amount of time and effort it takes to get there.
In truth, we hadn’t planned on calling in either, but our route from Mompox to San Gil was such a lengthy one that we decided to break the journey and take a look at one of the country’s 17 pueblos patrimonios (heritage towns) along the way.
And we’re glad we did.
La Playa de Belén (or “Bethlehem Beach”) is a cobbled, three-street, single-church, ultra-clean pueblo that defines the phrase, sleepy village. But what makes it attractive to visit is its proximity to the bizarre rock formations of Área Natural Única Los Estoraques.
So, if you’re prepared to make time for a crowd-free detour on your route north to Santa Marta or south to San Gil, then here’s how we’d suggest you do it.
La Playa de Belén
La Playa de Belén
Contents
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Getting there
If you’re travelling by bus from the north (eg: Santa Marta), get off at Aguachica and catch a bus/minivan to Ocaña with Cootransunidos. From there, it’s 59 kilometres (37 miles) and a 90-minute journey that rises 1000 metres (3,300 feet) through a spectacular and mountainous landscape.
Just be prepared for your driver to be obsessively pre-occupied with overtaking every lorry that gets in his way.
Once in Ocaña, you can catch one of the regular minivans to La Playa de Belén (30-45 minutes).
From the south, you can get a direct bus from Bucaramanga to Ocaña (5-6 hours) without having to change at Aguachica (Cootransunico, again).
Where to stay
You can either stay in the village or out in the countryside. For a best-of-both-worlds experience, we’d recommend staying at the lovely Finca Casa Real, just a short walk out of the village and set amongst fields of peppers, maize and potatoes.
And with great views of Los Estoraques, too.
Co-owner, Carolina will also arrange for a guide to the park and a minivan to pick you up when you return to Ocaña, too. Just don’t let her try and convince you to sample one of her special fruit/salt concoctions straight from the garden.
Like I did…..
Ian getting to grips with one of Carolina’s “delicacies”
The village
With only three streets to its name, Belén isn’t exactly a place to “explore”. But there’s no denying it’s a beautiful, meticulously decorated and serene place of single-storey whitewashed houses.
With a very distinct colour scheme of red, white and brown. And nary a piece of litter in sight.
In fact, you get the impression that if someone dropped as much as a sweet wrapper there’d be a local “litter defence volunteer” jumping out from a hidden doorway to swiftly remove the offending article.
We visited during the week before Christmas and the whole village was decked out in subtly arranged decorations that all appeared to have come from the same box. Almost as if the local mayor had grossly over-ordered for the office party and handed out the leftovers to everyone in town with clear instructions on how and where to hang them up. And, as a finishing touch, each lampost was dressed up like a stick of Blackpool rock (aka stick candy).
But, do you know, it all somehow worked. So much so that a gentle meander through the village, both during the day and in the evening, was a chilled and calming experience. And, as we’ve experienced pretty much everywhere else in Colombia, the people who lived there were glad to see us.
For something to eat, head to El Portal on the road back to Casa Real. Under a huge thatched roof, we had an excellent two-course menu del dias lunch for 8,000 Colombia pesos (£2 / $2.50).
Los Estoraques
You can see some of the unique rock formations found in this park elsewhere in Santander and Boyaca. But nowhere are they so concentrated and dramatic as in this small park that’s situated right next to the village.
Like the backdrop to a science-fiction movie, the passage of time has helped to carve out the granite, sandstone and sedimentary rock landscape into a weird world of pedestals, columns and caves.
They’re a sight that can be appreciated both close up and from a distance. But wandering through the park and climbing up to vantage points to peer in between them is at times a mesmerising experience.
Just watch out for the snakes.
It’s a little confusing as to which parts of the park are actually open. Until very recently it was closed altogether and now only parts are officially open to the public. Nor is it totally clear whether you can walk around by yourself or if you need a guide. We chose the guide route (arranged through Casa Real), which at 70,000 Colombian pesos (£17.50 / $22.50) for a full day private tour was hard to beat.
And, to be honest, some of the pathways were pretty treacherous, with sheer drops only a misstep away, so we were glad to have Alvaro (tel: 350-845 5368) and his expertise along with us.
Los Pinos
Once you’ve had your fill of seeing the formations up close, you’ll want to get a different perspective of them from a distance.
Perched on a hill across from the park, a small man-made forest of pine trees (Los Pinos) is a dusty 45-minute walk away. But for a panoramic view of both La Playa de Belén and the unique landscape behind, it’s well worth the effort.
The Cemetery
From Los Pinos, Alvaro led us back down past Casa Real and through the village before climbing steeply up to what was possibly the most picturesque cemetery we’ve ever seen.
A strange choice to include on a hike, you might think. But, with further panoramic views of Los Estoraques and across to the Mirador Santa Cruz, it provides yet another perspective on this unique landscape.
And, for those who need more of an adrenaline rush, the Tibetan Bridge offers a leap-of-faith walk across the gorge, albeit with the aid of a harness.
Mirador Santa Cruz
And, to complete the circuit, Mirador Santa Cruz is a vantage point on the opposite side of the valley. It can be accessed via a 1 km trail that starts by the El Portal restaurant. But Alvaro took us on a steepish shortcut via the house and back yard of one of the village’s residents.
The view from the top looks back across the village with the cemetery and Los Estoraques towering behind.
Is La Playa de Belen safe to visit?
Without making light of the warnings we’d read about online, I can quite honestly say that at no point were we remotely aware of any perceived threat to our safety. Indeed, we were met with nothing but friendliness by most of the people we came into contact with. Which is pretty much par for the course for the rest of the country, to be fair.
That’s not to say that the threats aren’t out there. But most Colombians want nothing to do with the criminal gangs that lurk in certain parts of the country. And, as always, applying common sense and remaining vigilant are basic principles to maintain at all times. No matter which country you’re in.
Final thoughts
La Playa de Belén is probably not a place you’d make a special journey to visit unless you already happen to be in the area. And there’s not an awful lot to do other than what I’ve outlined in this post.
But if you value the prospect of visiting a charming and very Colombian mountain village with a uniquely rugged landscape as a backdrop – and where you may just be the only foreigner in town – then this could very well be the place for you.
What did you think? Have you been to La Playa de Belén? Do you have any recommendations to add? Or perhaps you’re thinking of visiting there in the near future? Either way, we’d love to hear from you so please add your comments below.
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Hi, we’re Ian and Nicky, an English couple on a voyage of discovery around the world, and this blog is designed to reflect what we see, think and do. Actually, we’d like to think it also provides information, entertainment and inspiration for other “mature” travellers, too. So please feel free to pour yourself a glass of something suitably chilled and take a look around.
Snakes? What kind of snakes?
To be honest, Lori, I’ve no idea what types of snakes were there – all I needed to know from our guide was that we should tread carefully and that was enough for me! The terrain looked to me like a snake’s idea of heaven – remote, dusty and full of rocks to hide under. To be fair, they don’t generally go looking for trouble but it pays to be vigilant. Anyway, snakes I can deal with. Spiders on the other hand…
Hi Ian … I just came across this post. We are planning on going from Mompox to Playa de Belen. Can you confirm how you did it?
Hi Gabrielle – I can tell you it’s not straightforward. And the way we did it is not necessarily the only way. Our research had told us that the route was: 1) Taxi from Mompox to El Banco; 2) Bus from El Banco to Aguachica; 3) Mini-van from Aguachica to Ocaña; 4) Mini-van from Ocaña to La Playa de Belén. So here’s what we did. Firstly, we booked a taxi through our B&B (Mompox Cafe) to take us to the bus station in El Banco 70km away. However, our driver dropped us off at a fruit and vegetable market in El Banco (nowhere near any bus station) and handed us over to another “taxi” driver, who eventually agreed to take us to Aguachica straight away for less than the bus fare. Yes, I know – sounds dodgy. But, to be honest, it worked fine and we arrived in Aguachica a good two hours before the bus was due to arrive. And then from the bus station in Aguachica, we simply bought tickets for the minivan to Ocaña and likewise in Ocaña for Belén. Be prepared for the trip to take the whole day. And nobody will speak any English. The road from Mompox to El Banco is notoriously poor, although we did see the occasional bus trying to negotiate its way through the potholes. If I were you I’d still book a taxi for this leg. And you might just want to check on the current security situation in La Playa de Belen as I’ve read very recently of some disturbances in the area. In fact, if I can find out some more, I’ll be updating our La Playa de Belén post accordingly. Hope this helps. But if you need any further help just let me know.
Thanks, Ian … that’s useful! I’ll report back in due course. Will also let you know about the situation (though this won’t be putting us off our travels)!
No problem at all, Gabrielle. Just one further thing – I’d inadvertently typed “Arequipa” (which is actually in Peru) instead of “Aguachica” so I’ve now updated my original reply to you! Just in case you were searching for it on the map!!
One more question!!! We are arriving in Colombia via Cartagena, which we both felt we wanted to see. We have an absolute aversion to cruise shippers and mass tourism so I’m really worried that it’s going to be awful!! Can you let us know how you found it? We have three nights there before we head off …
I think you might just have to “go with the flow” if there’s a cruise ship in town. To be honest, it gets pretty busy around the Old Town anyway – and the touts are always out in force (we didn’t experience them anywhere else in Colombia). But don’t worry – we try to avoid the crowds wherever possible, too, but we tempered our expectations and managed to enjoy Cartagena all the same. It’s definitely worth seeing. Our usual strategy applies – get out and about early before all the tour groups arrive. If there is a cruise ship docked, head over to explore Getsemani during the day – almost everyone else will be in the Old Town. Also, we stayed at an Airbnb in the Manga area, which is across the bridge from Getsemani and is safe and quiet. One final thing, it’ll help you appreciate the serenity of Mompox if that’s where you’re heading afterwards!
Thanks for the blog post, very interesting. La Playa is on my short list of places to retire in (I currently live in Puerto Colombia, near Barranquilla. I’ve been here for 6 years.). One bit of info I have yet to be able to find is the average rainfall per year for La Playa de Belén. It’s very strange, but I’ve checked half a dozen sites with climate info for the cities/pueblos of Colombia and none have Belén. I suppose it’s just too small to include on those lists. I suppose it is similar to Ocaña, though. Thanks again for the blog post.
Hi Chip and thanks for the comment. Yes, it’s a pretty remote place and a good 1000 metres higher in altitude than Ocana so I’m guessing that the climate will be a lot more unpredictable. Certainly a lot cooler than Puerto Colombia! Interesting that you’ve got it on your shortlist for retiring. For what it’s worth, we talked about the areas around Barichara in Santander and Villa de Leyva in Boyaca as potential places we’d live in.
Beautiful post and pictures. The rock formations look amazing. Will definitely go see when I am in Colombia (whenever that happens).
Thanks, Sue. That whole area around Santander and Boyaca is probably our favourite part of Colombia. In fact, we’ll be posting about some of the other pueblos in the area (Mongui, Barichara, Villa de Leyva) very soon.
This feels like one of the most off the beaten path of any “off the beaten path” articles I’ve read lately. Maybe ever. Thanks for taking me with you via your words and photos!
Glad you liked it, Sage! To be fair, once you get away from the main tourist areas of the Caribbean coast, Medellin, Bogota and Salento, much of Colombia is “off the beaten path”. Which makes it such a great destination to visit.
Wow this us just the sort of place we would visit and adore. Has our names written all over it – perhaps except the snakes. Thank you.
Yes, it’s definitely off the radar for most travellers, Karen, but then again that’s part of the attraction. That and the fact it’s a truly stunning place.
Fantastic scenery! I’m out of breath just looking at it!
I feel the same just writing about it, Lyn!