Why You Should Visit Niteroi, Rio’s Underrated Neighbour

Cariocas (residents of Rio de Janeiro) like to quip that the only reason to visit Niteroi, a separate city on the opposite side of Guanabara Bay, is for the view back of the Rio skyline. And there’s no doubt that there are some pretty spectacular views. But there’s plenty more to see and do besides.

Alright, Niteroi might not boast iconic landmarks, such as Copacabana Beach, Sugar Loaf Mountain or the Christ the Redeemer statue. Nor can it quite match the atmosphere that Rio can generate. Not many cities can. But, what it lacks in instantly recognisable Instagram backdrops, it more than compensates with great beaches, wonderful food  – and yes, fabulous views of its brash sister across the bay.

We know as we spent three months housesitting there during the southern hemisphere winter months. Which was no hardship given the pleasantly warm weather and lack of crowds.

So, if you’re looking for things to do in Rio, we thoroughly recommend allowing some time to visit Niteroi. Either as a day trip or even for an overnight stay or two. Just make sure you look for some clear weather to make the most of the views.

And our Niteroi guide – beginning at the ferry terminal and stretching along the coast to the fantastic Atlantic beaches – contains everything you’ll need to know to get the most out of your visit.

Getting to Niteroi from Rio

There are two routes to Niteroi from Rio. Firstly, via the Rio Niteroi bridge by bus or taxi. And secondly, across the bay on the regular ferry service.

The bridge is something of a work of art, spanning over 8 miles (more than 13 kilometres) and providing some great views of both the Rio skyline and the bay. 

Buses tend to bypass the centre of the city en route to the bridge. But if you’re based in one of the main tourist areas south of the centre (including Copacabana and Ipanema) you can take the 755D or 775D service to Niteroi’s main bus terminal. The fare is ridiculously inexpensive – 10 to 12 Brazilian reals (or less than £2 / $2.50 at the time of writing) irrespective of the distance travelled. The Moovit app is a good resource for checking schedules.

Taxis or Ubers are obviously more convenient. And Uber, in particular, offer fantastic value in Rio.

But for you romantics out there, the ferry crossing has to be the first choice. During the week, boats criss-cross the bay all day until late into the evening (although weekends have a reduced service). On the Rio side, you’ll need to make your way to the Praça XV de Novembro terminal, buy your ticket from the ticket booth to the Praça Arariboia terminal in Niteroi (7.90 reals / £1.30 / $1.50 – August 2022) and enter the terminal via the adjacent turnstiles.

The crossing takes about 20 minutes and is worth it for the experience alone. Especially if you can make it to the two open windows at the back of the ferry (before anyone else does) and gaze at the Rio skyline as you cross over the bay.

As an alternative, there’s also a catamaran ferry service to Charitas (21 reals / £3.50 / $4.00), 5 miles south of Praça Arariboia. However, as it’s mainly a commuter service, it only operates during the two rush hour periods Monday to Friday (06:45, then hourly until 10:45 – and again at 16:30, then hourly until 19:30). You might want to consider this if you’re on a day trip as Charitas is the gateway to Niteroi’s best beaches and restaurants.

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Central Niteroi

In truth, most of your time is likely to be spent further along the coastline rather than in central Niteroi. But, once you’ve disembarked the ferry there are a few places of interest to consider before you move on.

The Mercado São Pedro is the largest fish market in Rio de Janeiro state. We’ve been to a few over the years but this is by far the cleanest and most visually striking of them all. OK, you’re not likely to be buying any fish or seafood as part of your Niteroi trip. BUT, if you fancy starting your day with a seafood lunch, you can buy your catch from downstairs and make your way to one of the restaurants upstairs where they’ll cook it for you for a nominal fee (approximately 30 reals).

Just along from the ferry terminal, Teatro Municipal João Caetano is housed in a 19th-Century building resplendent in yellow and white. Named after the revered Brazilian actor of the 19th-Century, it’s one of the few historic buildings in Niteroi (or in Rio itself for that matter) where a full restoration has been tastefully completed.

In contrast, the Caminho Niemeyer is home to the modernist concrete curves of the Teatro Popular and other buildings designed by Oscar Niemeyer, the famous Brazilian architect. They’re a bit of an acquired taste, but Niemeyer’s work can be seen elsewhere in Niteroi, too. Including the Charitas ferry terminal and the Reserva Cultural Niteroi, a cinema and event complex.

Perhaps the most striking (and famous), however, is the Niteroi Contemporary Art Museum, just along the coast from the ferry terminal. To get there your best bet would be to call an Uber (9 to 12 reals – August 2022).

Niteroi Contemporary Art Museum

Set on a cliff overlooking Guanabara Bay, the museum (aka the “MAC”) is perhaps Niteroi’s most photographed landmark. Shaped like an abandoned flying saucer and accessed via a snaking walkway paved in red, it’s worth visiting for the photo opportunities alone, even if you don’t go inside.

But, if you do, there’s a large permanent collection of contemporary art, together with some temporary exhibitions to admire.

Icarai

To the left of the MAC, a short walk down the hill will lead you to Icarai, Niteroi’s boutique shopping area. Most of the shops run adjacent to and one block back from the promenade and Icarai beach.

Because of the beach’s location within Guanabara Bay, the water here is brackish and/or somewhat polluted. The same goes for Sao Francisco and Charitas beaches, for that matter. So don’t expect to swim. The beach itself is white powder for the most part, and there are generally plenty of sports going on. 

In particular, futevolei (think beach volleyball meets football/soccer) is well catered for with permanent nets established for much of its length. If you’ve not played the game before don’t expect to pick it up quickly – the art of controlling a football in the air on powder sand with just your legs, shoulders and chest is a skill best left to the Brazilians! In fact, just watching them might leave you breathless.

Oh, and those views the cariocas bang on about? Well, how about a full panorama of Rio laid out in front of you? Including Sugar Loaf Mountain, The Two Brothers, Pedra da Gavea and Christ the Redeemer.

It’s a view we didn’t tire of. But it’s even more impressive when the skyline is silhouetted against the yellows, oranges and reds of the Rio sunset.

Curiously, apart from the odd exception, there aren’t really any restaurants or bars facing the beach to speak of. Just apartment blocks and hotels. The beach isn’t really set up with bar restaurants either. Apart from a sprinkling of kiosks selling coconut water and the odd can of Brahma beer. We found it better to take our own drinks (homemade caipirinhas!) and sit on the beach while the sun made its steady descent to the horizon.

Also of interest at weekends, Campo de Sao Bento is a park situated four blocks back from the centre of Icarai beach. There you’ll find a weekend market with handicrafts and regional hot and cold food.

Sao Francisco

Heading further south, the next stop is Sao Francisco, which is where our housesit was based. You can walk to it in about 25-30 minutes by following the coast road from Icarai Beach. But you’d be better off either catching a bus (#17, 33, 755D, 775D, OC1, OC2, OC3 all pass through) and getting off at the stop following the tunnel exit, or calling an Uber.

For us, Sao Francisco’s beach is prettier than Icarai’s. It’s less crowded, the sand is cleaner and, with its palm trees, has more of a tropical feel about it. Futevolei is still the chief sport in town. But the beach is also lined with Hawaiian canoes. And football pitches (with goalposts and nets) occasionally sprout up. 

Of course, the views of Rio are different. Sugar Loaf Mountain is now obscured. But Christ the Redeemer can still be seen behind the fishing village of Jurujuba, set on a hilly peninsula that completes the opposite side of Sao Francisco Bay. A view we became accustomed to as we regularly walked the dogs in our care along the beach and promenade. Alongside, in true Brazilian style, elderly male joggers wearing nothing more than a cap, speedos and a pair of Havaianas.

Although there are no bar restaurants on the beach itself, there’s no shortage of them on the opposite side of the promenade. From traditional Brazilian churrascaria to Peruvian/Chinese fusion, Japanese and Brazilian regional food. There’s also a craft beer brewery outlet and a couple of artisan ice cream shops. (see below for our recommendations).

Charitas

Separated from Sao Francisco beach by a tiny peninsula, Charitas beach reverses the Niteroi trend by boasting over a dozen kiosks with plastic tables and chairs right on the sand. It’s here you can dig your toes into the white powder while enjoying great value food with an ice-cold beer or caipirinha. 

Indeed, we often made our way down to one of these kiosks in the late afternoon for a sundowner caipirinha. 

Or two. 

At weekends – and especially Sundays – it gets packed with locals. Which, for us, was a great way of experiencing true Brazilian beach life. 

And the view of Rio? Well, it’s never less than sublime. But if you head towards Charitas ferry terminal, you’ll be treated with a view of Sugar Loaf Mountain as it peers between two hillsides in the foreground.

Parque da Cidade Niteroi

As long as the weather is clear, you absolutely should not miss this!

If you’re here on a weekend you’ll no doubt see plenty of paragliders descending from the summit of a hillside behind Sao Francisco and onto Charitas beach. The hillside is part of Parque da Cidade Niteroi. And the viewpoint from up there will blow your mind.

Unless you’ve got the calf muscles of a Tour de France yellow jersey winner, you probably shouldn’t attempt walking up or down. It’s relentlessly steep and not particularly interesting. Instead, just call an Uber. It’ll cost you around 10-12 reals from the beach so it’s not even worth debating the merits. And you’ll thank us once you get to the summit.

From a viewpoint to the left, a paragliding platform looks out over the lakes and beaches on the Atlantic coast. But, on the right, a panorama of staggering beauty unfolds before you. The whole of Rio de Janeiro’s west-facing skyline can be seen – from the high rises of Copacabana on the left to the islands beyond the Rio Niteroi bridge to the right. And, in the foreground, the bay is pockmarked with fishing boats, yachts and ferries.

If you time it right you could stay for sunset, which is quite the experience. Although, once again, it gets very busy with families at the weekends. Just be aware that the sun is directly opposite and can be fiercely hot up there until it begins its final descent for the day.

We’d heard that the phone signal and 4G reception at the summit were pretty patchy – and that booking another Uber to take us down might be problematic. But we managed it fine. Although if you DID have to walk down via the road after sunset, it’s lit up all the way.

Fortaleza de Santa Cruz

From Charitas beach, you can catch a #17 or 33 bus to the small fishing village of Jurujuba. From there it’s a 30-minute walk along the coast to Fortaleza de Santa Cruz. Or, as you might have realised by now, you can simply order an Uber.

Built on the original 16th Century French fortifications, the present-day working fort sits at the mouth of Guanabara Bay, directly opposite Sugar Loaf Mountain. 

Fabulous Rio views come as standard, of course. But, if you’re interested in its history, it’s possible to have a guided tour courtesy of one of the on-duty soldiers (you can’t explore on your own). Although we were lucky enough to be assigned a guide who could speak some English, that’s not normally the case. But we’d encourage you to take the tour anyway as for the entrance price (10 reals – July 2022) it’s worth it just to be shown around for 45 minutes.

Details and tour times are listed here.

Fortaleza de São Luis is a hilltop fort near Jurujuba that’s also open to visitors – although we haven’t been there so can’t comment.

The Ocean beaches

Beyond Fortaleza de Santa Cruz and the mouth of the bay, the coastline changes direction to the west. This is where Niteroi’s south-facing (and best) beaches are gathered. And some great short hikes, too.

They differ from the other Niteroi beaches in that they’re not polluted as they face the open sea.

To get there from Charitas you can catch one of the Ocean Coastline buses (OC1, OC2, OC3 – 4.65 reals) depending on which beach you want to go to.

The nearest are two long stretches of sand at Praia de Piratininga and Praia de Camboinhas. And, in between, Praia de Sossego is set in a small lagoon. 

Beyond, Praia de Itaipu, with its accompanying lake, beach restaurants and views of Rio, is popular during the day and for sunset. And there’s a relatively easy hiking trail to a lookout at Morro das Andorinhas.

But, for us, the real jewels are just a bit further along.

Itacoatiara

Itacoatiara beach boasts gorgeous white powder sand, surfing waves and a dramatic backdrop of jagged cliffs.  With just a small selection of kiosks on the road behind, it doesn’t have the infrastructure of Itaipu beach. But, for us, it’s all the better for it. And it’s quite possibly Rio’s most attractive beach.

Other than by Uber, you can get there by catching the OC1 or OC2 bus and getting off at the stop once the bus circles the blue and white police station. From there it’s a 10-minute walk to the beach.

Costao de Itacoatiara

However, before you head to the beach we can absolutely recommend the 45-minute hike to the summit of Costao de Itacoatiara. It’s effectively a huge slab of granite that overlooks the western end of the beach, from where there are helicopter views of the surf below and a panorama that stretches right across to Rio.

It does involve some scrambling over rocks and a short, steep section that demands the aid of a rope. But if you’re reasonably fit it’s perfectly doable.

Pedra do Elefante

We’ll admit, technically our final two recommendations are not actually in the city of Niteroi but sit in the municipality of Marica. However, their close proximity to Itacoatiara makes them easily accessible.

This time you’ll definitely need to order an Uber as buses don’t follow the coast because of the extremely steep road. From Itacoatiara it’ll cost no more than 10-12 reals to get to the trailhead for Pedra do Elefante (next to the Mirante de Itaipuacua lookout).

To make it to the summit (approximately 45 minutes to 1 hour), the final stretch involves a climb up a steep rock face that might intimidate some. And you’ll need to have the strength to pull yourself up from one rock to the next at times. But, if you’re up for it, getting to summit is a wholly rewarding experience. 

Along the way, you get views back across to Costao de Itacoatiara and beyond toward Rio. And, once at the summit, there’s an incredible view of Itaipuacu beach, as it stretches to the horizon. Meanwhile, large birds of prey silently glide and swoop around you, the quiet only broken by the breeze and the faint murmur of chinking plates at a restaurant 400 metres (1300 feet) directly below.

Itaipuacu

It’s a 2 km walk downhill from the trailhead to Praia de Itaipuacu. Or another short Uber ride if you prefer.

The beach is huge, with mile-upon-mile of clean sand and featuring mini dunes close to the water’s edge carved out by the waves and wind. Curiously it doesn’t appear to be either a typically sand or pebble beach, but rather tiny pieces of rounded glass beads. Billions of them. Which means that it gets very hot underfoot and walking any distance is tough going because of the movement of the grains.

It’s certainly unique. But it’s also one of the most beautiful beaches we’ve ever seen. Even though swimming is off the menu due to the huge waves and powerful undertow.

And, when you’re done, there are some simple restaurants at the back of the beach to cool your feet and quench your thirst.

Where to eat and drink in Niteroi

São Francisco 

The largest concentration of eateries is along the main strip in Sao Francisco. Although they’re by no means the least expensive.

Although it’s part of a chain, our favourite is Mocellin Churrascaria. They have an á la carte menu but most people opt for the rodizio – an all-you-can-eat BBQ served at your table by an army of waiters wielding huge knives and vertical skewers laden with various cuts of meat. A simple system of laying a card upright on your table – either green or red – indicates to a passing waiter whether you’re ready for some more. Or that’s the theory. In a nod to the cavalier attitude of Brazilian drivers, the red and green traffic light system appeared to be treated as no more than unnecessary bureaucracy.

In addition to the meat, there’s an extensive salad bar. Best of all, they have their own sushi chef and there’s a whole range of sushi, sashimi etc to choose from, too. All this for 138 reals (£23 / $26 – August 2022). And the caipirinhas ain’t half bad, either!

Further along the strip, Noi is an award-winning craft beer brewery with its own restaurant. We can’t say the food is anything special, but combining it with one of their large range of beers ticked the box for us. In fact, their Diavolo won Gold in the Best Biere de Garde & Saison category at the 2022 World Beer Awards.

A restaurant we didn’t try, but comes highly recommended by our housesit hosts, is Restaurant Á Mineira. It’s another buffet-style eatery specialising in food from Minas Gerais state. And, judging by the queues outside at weekends, the locals love it.

Of course, if you prefer your food a little more rustic then you could just rock up at one of the kiosks on Charitas beach and gorge on hearty local fayre for 35-40 reals.

Jurujuba

There are a couple of highly popular restaurants in Jurujuba, across the bay from Sao Francisco. As it’s a fishing village, the seafood is the main event – most of which has been caught that day. We had a lovely, rich Moqueca – a Brazilian fish stew – at Bergabão. There’s also Bicho Papão next door.

Niteroi centre

In addition to the row of restaurants at San Pedro fish market, we also enjoyed Botequim Arretado, which specialises in northeastern Brazilian food. It’s close to the ferry terminal and has a long row of tables outside, which can get packed at weekends.

Look out for cultural events

Like Rio, there always seems to be some sort of cultural event happening in Niteroi. Which naturally means lots of food stalls, caipirinha and plenty of music and dancing. 

For instance, during our stay, there was a three-day music festival right on Sao Francisco beach. Including a couple of performances from long-forgotten 70s prog-rock bands from the UK.

Our favourite event, though, was the Festival Delicias de Roca in Campo de Sao Bento. A three-day long food, drink and music-a-thon with a dizzying number of craft beer and cachaça stands. And including a food stall offering freshly cooked Salvadorian acaraje – a deep-fried patty of ground black beans, split in two and filled with crispy shrimp, fried onions, and a raging hot chilli sauce. It might not win any awards for being the healthiest street food. But man, does it taste good. And served by a beaming lady in bright traditional dress who moves in rhythm to the nearby live music.

Brazil, right there.

Of course, these events are seasonal but you can find out what’s going on during your visit by “liking” the official Portal Cidade de Niteroi Facebook page.

Final thoughts on why you should visit Niteroi

We firmly believe that Niteroi is one of the best day trips from Rio de Janeiro. But, to get the most from it, you’ll probably need at least two days, including an overnight stop.

If you can only manage one day we’d suggest you catch one of the early-morning catamaran ferries to Charitas and use Sao Francisco as your base. As we’ve already mentioned, Uber is cheap, safe and efficient so you can get around quickly if you want to venture further afield.

Rio de Janeiro is justly famous for its stellar scenery. But not many international tourists bother to view it from the perspective across the bay. Which is a shame. 

Hopefully, we’ve convinced you to do just that!

But if you still need convincing, here’s some great drone footage to chew over.

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What did you think?  Do you have any recommendations on what to do in Niteroi? Or perhaps you’re going to visit Niteroi in the near future? Either way, we’d love to hear from you so please add your comments below.